GSD Site Store
Add Free Classifieds
Adult German Shepherds
Alsation/German Shepherd Puppies
Free/Lost/Found/Stolen/Missing German Shepherds Dogs
German Shepherd (Alsation) Breeders/Kennels
German Shepherd Boarding
German Shepherd Books, Customer Gifts, Toys and more...
German Shepherd Crates, Ramps, Dog Houses, Beds, Steps, Car Seat Covers and more.....
German Shepherd Dog Food/Treats/Bowls...more
German Shepherd Dog Rescue
German Shepherd Dog Training Gear
German Shepherd Dog Training Toys...more
German Shepherd Grooming Services, Dog Waste Supplies, Puppy Traing Supplies and More...
German Shepherd Imports
German Shepherd Leashes, Collars, Muzzles, Harnesses and more...
German Shepherd Medications and Supplements
German Shepherd Obedience Trainers
German Shepherd Schutzhund and Protection Dog Trainers
German Shepherd Schutzhund/IPO Clubs and Organizations
German Shepherd Service Dogs
German Shepherds Schutzhund/Protection Dogs For Sale
K-9 German Shepherds
Panda and other German Shepherds
Solid Black German Shepherds
Trained German Shepherds
White German Shepherd
German Shepherd Dog Foot and Paw Care
Top 10 Paw Care Tips For Dogs From GSDsite.com
Your dog’s feet sure are made for walking, but did you know they are also made for protecting? Pads provide extra cushioning to help protect bones and joints from shock, provide insulation against extreme weather, aid walking on rough ground and help protect tissue deep within the paw. With all that work to do, it’s no wonder your pooch’s paws often take a bit of a beating.
Keep a spring in your pet’s step with our top 10 paw care tips:
Pamper With Pedicures: Your dog's nails should just about touch the ground when she walks. If her nails are clicking or getting snagged on the floor, it's time for a pedicure.Snip and Trim: Trim paw hair regularly to avoid painful matting. Simply comb hair out, especially from between the toes, and trim even with the pads.
Clean In Between: Foreign objects can become lodged in your dog’s pads. Check regularly between toes for foxtails, pebbles, small bits of broken glass and other debris. These pesky items can usually be removed with a pair of tweezers.
Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize: A dog’s pads can become cracked and dry. GSDsite has good pad moisturizers and use as directed. Avoid human hand moisturizer, as this can soften the pads and lead to injury.
Deep Paw Massage: Similar to giving a human hand massage, a paw massage will relax your dog and promote better circulation. Start by rubbing between the pads on the bottom of the paw, and then rub between each toe. Your dog will be forever grateful for the extra TLC!
Slow and Steady: If you’re about to begin a new exercise program with your dog, start off slow. Paws may become sensitive, chaffed or cracked, particularly when starting your dog out on hikes and runs.
Apply First Aid: It's not unusual for dogs to suffer cuts or other wounds from accidentally stepping on glass, debris or other objects. Wounds that are smaller than a half inch in diameter can be cleaned with an antibacterial wash and wrapped with a light bandage. For deeper paw cuts, see the vet for treatment.
Summertime Sores: Imagine stepping barefoot onto hot pavement. Ouch! It is important to remember your dog’s paws feel heat extremes, too. To prevent burns and blisters, avoid walking your dog on hot pavement or sand. Signs include blisters, loose flaps of skin and red, ulcerated patches. For minor burns, apply antibacterial wash and cover the paw with a loose bandage. For serious burns, visit your vet immediately.
Wintertime Blues: Winter is hard on everyone’s skin, even your dog’s! Bitter cold can cause chapping and cracking. Rock salt and chemical ice melters can cause sores, infection and blistering. Toxic chemicals can also be ingested by your dog when he licks his paws. After outdoor walks, wash your dog’s paws in warm water to rinse away salt and chemicals. You may wish to apply Vaseline, a great salt barrier, to the foot pads before each walk.
Practice Prevention: To reduce the risk of injury, keep your home and yard clear of pointy bits and pieces. Be conscious to avoid hazards such as broken glass and other debris when walking your dog. And keep this simple tip in mind—if you wouldn’t like to walk on it barefoot, neither will your dog!
Dog Food, Water Bowls, Food containers and more...
Size of the dish: A water bowl should hold at least a quart of water. A dog food bowl should hold at least 2 cups of dry food.
Your dog may need bigger bowls depending on how much you feed him.
For puppy dishes, buy with your puppy’s adult size in mind. It doesn’t hurt to start with bigger bowls than he needs, but don’t fill his food dish to the rim. A proper diet includes reasonable portions for your puppy’s size.
Stainless steel is safer and more durable than ceramic or plasticThe best dog dish is stainless steel, weighted to be tip-proof, and has a non-skid bottom. Stainless steel is easy to clean, resists chewing, and is unbreakable.
Plastic bowls can develop jagged edges and splinter if your dog chews them. They can cause allergies in some dogs and the pigment used in the plastic may even discolor your dog’s nose over time.
A ceramic dog dish is easily broken and the porous material holds germs, which means you’ll need to clean it more frequently. Also, ceramic bowls made outside of the United States may contain lead and other toxic substances.
Buy separate bowls for food and water. Dishes that serve food and water together can be awkward to clean and you’ll often find kibble floating in the water dish. Separate bowls help keep your dog’s water fresh and make clean-up easier.
German Shepherd Dog Food Dry
German Shepherd Dog Dry Dog Food
Advantages of Dry
1. Convenience: If you're one of those dog owners that likes to pour the dog food in your dog’s dish and then just leave it for the rest of the day, this would definitely be more convenient for you. There is one disadvantage to that, though. It can cause obesity. Most dogs will eat what's in front of them whether it's one cup or three cups. A measured amount once in the morning and once in the evening is always the best habit to get into.
2. Less Expensive: Dry dog food is less expensive than wet, but always make sure you read labels. You should always have either your protein or carbohydrate listed first followed by a good fat. Here is an example of what the label should look like: Chicken, chicken meal, potatoes chicken fat (this includes any protein like beef, chicken, lamb, fish, bison, venison, etc) Or Potatoes, chicken, (or chicken meal) chicken fat (this includes sweet potatoes and BROWN rice...never white rice), any protein and/or protein meal) Do not buy food that has corn (this is just a filler), soy (causes a lot of allergies) or white rice. There is no nutritional value in this food. NEVER buy anything that has by-products of any kind in it!
3. Caloric Density: There is much more caloric density in dry dog food due to wet having a lot of water in it. Remember, if you are going with dry, "premium" dog foods are better. Please understand that even though it will cost you more at the cash register, you will use less at feeding time due to its nutritional value, therefore, the cost will actually seem the same.
German Shepherd Dog First Aid Kits and Emergency Supplies
Dog Tip: First Aid Kits and Emergency Treatments - Prepare Now!
Those who have faced emergencies can tell you it is essential to get your first aid kit together and get familiar with first aid measures BEFORE you are confronted with an accident, emergency or sudden illness. Many situations require fast and correct action to prevent further injury, infection or death. So assemble a first aid kit now, so that you'll be ready when your pet (or a human) needs immediate help.
Be sure to read through the First Aid Kit list that follows. It will give you an idea of the situations that can and do come up. Being prepared can keep a manageable incident from becoming health-threatening. It will reduce the chance of infection and further complications...reduce stress for everyone...cut recovery time...and empower you to effectively help. Being prepared can even make the difference between life and death.
FIRST AID KIT
Keep a first aid safety kit on hand at home and in your car. Take the one from your car with you when you travel with your pet.
Each kit should include the items listed. It might sound like a lot of stuff, but when an accident occurs, these items can help you save the health or life of an animal...or a human.
Waterproof Kit Container:
Write on the container, in indelible ink, the phone numbers for your vet, the closest emergency animal hospital, and poison control hotlines. Also list your own name, address and phone numbers.
First Aid Guides:
Animal first aid book, such as Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook.
CPR for Dogs
Essential Vet and Contact Info:
Prepare and make copies of a list including:
Phone number for your vet, the closest emergency animal hospital, and poison control hotlines (such as the 2 listed in this tipsheet).
Your own name, address and phone numbers.
Your emergency contact person's numbers, in case you are incapacitated.
The name, age, breed, sex, identification (such as microchipping information), and any health problems (especially useful information if your petsitter or emergency contact needs to call an emergency medical service about your pet).
A copy of your pet vaccination records.
Photo of each pet in case it is needed for ID or other purposes.
Tweezers (flat slant tip instead of the rounded variety)
Sterile needle (to remove splinters and tick heads)
Turkey baster or bulb syringe (for flushing wounds, force feeding)
10cc syringe with no needle (for administering medications)
Tongue depressor to examine mouth
Rectal thermometer (normal body temperature of dogs and cats is 100.5 to 102.5 F; take your pet's temperature under normal conditions to get a baseline for comparison in case he gets sick or injured)
Disposable safety razor (for shaving fur from around a wound)
Towel (at least 2)
Blanket (the compact thermal blanket works well; uses include keeping an injured animal from going into shock)
Bandanna and/or nylon stocking (many uses, including muzzling or securing a torn earflap)
Strips of cloth
Dog booties or little socks (to cover wounded paws or to protect so you won't need to treat)
3x3 sterile gauze pads
Rolled gauze (for bandaging, stabilizing joints, making a muzzle)
Adhesive first aid tape (in narrow and wide widths)
Bandages (including self-clinging or vet wrap and waterproof types)
Vet wrap, which sticks to itself but not fur.
Anti-bacterial wipes or pads
Hydrogen peroxide 3% USP (to induce vomiting and to use on infected wounds; check the expiration date from time to time and keep only fresh solution in your kit)
Activated charcoal tablets (effective in absorbing many toxics)
Betadine solution (a type of antiseptic iodine medicine for wounds to deter infection)
Antibiotic ointment (such a Neosporin)
Rubbing alcohol (apply on skin as body cooling agent to aid heat stroke or fever; helps break down oils; acts as a drying agent between toes and skin folds; but do not use on wounds as it can damage skin and is not an appropriate antiseptic)
Bag Balm (especially useful for treating paw pads)
Petroleum jelly (helpful aid for taking temperature)
Sterile saline eye solution (to flush out eye contaminants and wounds)
Artificial tear gel to lubricate eyes after flushing
Eye ointment with no cortisone
Epsom salt (mix 1 teaspoon in 2 cups of warm water for drawing out infection and bathing itchy paws and skin)
Baking soda (good for soothing skin conditions)
Styptic powder (to stop bleeding of torn toenails, etc.)
Milk of magnesia (for stomach upset and certain types of poison ingestion)
Pepto Bismol (for stomach upset and some types of poison ingestion; do not give to cats)
Benadryl (for bug bites and stings and other allergic reactions. Use plain Benadryl, not the other formulas.
Gentle pet sedative such as Rescue Remedy (available at GSDsite.com. Rescue Remedy is a Bach flower essence available in most health food stores. This gentle, natural stress reducing liquid can often help both people and animals recover from injury, fright, illness, travel fatigue and irritation. Put a drop in your water bottle and in their water. To help prevent travel sickness, a common dosage is four drops in the mouth about ten hours before the trip, repeating every four hours as needed. For stressed or injured animals, rub a drop on their ear or put a drop on the towel in their crate or carrier. Flower essences can be used along with conventional medicine.
Aspirin Buffered (for dogs only, 1 tablet per 60 pounds; do not use acetaminophen or ibuprofen; do not give aspirin to cats; since aspirin and other pain relievers can be toxic to any pet, consult your vet and first aid books)
Can of soft pet food (can help reduce the effect of a poisoning)
Mild grease-cutting dishwashing liquid such as Dawn (to clean contaminated skin or sticky substances)
Muzzle (an injured or scared animal may try to bite)
German Shepherd Grooming Services, Dog Waste Supplies, Puppy Traing Supplies and More...
Daily grooming of the GSD boils down to this: a quick brushing to keep the coat clean and healthy and also to help to combat shedding. The German Shepherd sheds constantly throughout the entire year and even more heavily with the changing of the seasons. Daily or weekly brushings will substantially cut down on its shedding overall and the amount of dog hair found throughout your house and also the overall amount of time spent grooming the GSD and dog training can help this process be more smooth. You can also have a better idea of whether or not your dog has any parasites such as ticks or fleas while grooming your dog. Baths should be given no more than once or twice a year to avoid drying out their skin. Remember too that diet plays an important part in coat condition overall, so feeding quality foods will help prevent any skin problems from happening as well. Basic grooming tools needed for grooming the GSD: A coat rake, a shedding blade, and a metal comb for the thicker coated GSD's, brushes and nail clippers.
German Shepherd Dog Whelping Supplies
The big day is fast approaching. You should have all of the supplies ready and waiting at least a week before the expected due date.
The whelping box is the single biggest item needed. It should provide enough room for the bitch to lay and stretch out comfortably without being so big that the puppies get 'lost.' For large breed dogs, it is also nice if a person can sit in the box with mom during labor and delivery and to play with the puppies later. The floor must be level and stable. The sides should be high enough to keep 4-week-old puppies in, but be hinged or have a door so the bitch can come and go. The sides may set inside the edges of the floor. This allows a blanket to be stretched tight over the floor and held in place by the sides. A safety rail is necessary around the entire perimeter. This allows the puppies to fit underneath in case the bitch lays down and they are in the way. It should be high and wide enough for a month-old puppy to fit under. The whelping box should be set up in a warm, quiet, safe location.
A heat lamp should be placed high enough that the bitch cannot contact it, but close enough to heat the area. It should only heat a corner of the whelping box, so if the puppies are too warm, they can move away from the heat source. The heat lamp light should be diffused with aluminum foil with holes poked in it with a needle. This protects the bulb from accidental contact and protects the puppies eyes from bright light.
Newspaper can be put in the whelping box during delivery. As it gets wet more layers are added. Once she is done whelping and is taken outside to relieve herself, the entire box is changed and dry paper put in with a blanket stretched tight over the top to give puppies traction.
Have large plastic garbage bags handy to place used newspaper, paper towels, and other garbage.
A laundry basket or box should be available to place puppies in while the rest of the litter is born. This protects them while the bitch paces and moves around during labor. A heating pad should be placed on the bottom with a fleece pad over it. (The puppies should NEVER be placed directly on heating pads, as they may be burned.) Another 1 or 2 towels should be placed over the top of the basket to keep the heat in. The fleece and the air in the basket should feel comfortably warm to your hand. If the puppies are moving around and crying, they are too cold or too hot. If they are bobbing their heads, searching, and crying, they are hungry. They should be put with mom as soon as possible to nurse. The puppies can be placed with the bitch between births to allow them to nurse and bond, and if necessary, be put back in the basket while the next sibling arrives.
A large stack of soft, clean towels should be handy to help clean off puppies if necessary. Large litters may require 2-3 dozen towels. White or light colored towels will show the color of any discharge or placenta. Have a laundry basket handy to throw them in as they are used. Wash as soon after birth as possible with detergent and bleach to minimize staining of the towels. An easy alternative is to use paper towel that can be discarded.
Other supplies to have on hand include the following:
- Sterile hemostats and blunt-end scissors to cut the umbilical cord, if necessary
- Alcohol and matches to sterilize the hemostats and scissors (dip the instrument in the alcohol, hold downward, light with a match - do not hold upward, as the alcohol (and fire) will go down your hand)
- Heavy sewing thread, dental floss, or suture (to tie umbilical cords if necessary)
- Lubricating (petroleum) jelly
- Several pairs of sterile surgical gloves
- Rubber pediatric bulb syringe or other suction devise to clear airways
- Surgical antiseptic scrub/iodine
- Tube feeder, syringe, bottle and nipple, and puppy milk replacer (such as Esbilac)
- Gram or ounce scale depending on average size of newborn puppy for your breed
- Nail polish to mark puppies for identification (puppies look remarkably similar and the best way to identify them is with marks)
- Thermometer – rectal to monitor the bitch's temperature
- Household thermometer to monitor the air temperature in the whelping box
- High-quality puppy food, cottage cheese, vanilla yogurt, and/or vanilla ice cream for the bitch
- Fresh water for the bitch
- Regular number for veterinary clinic and the emergency veterinary clinic number
- Numbers for family/friends/sitter to watch the children during delivery and, if necessary, to go to vet clinic
- Whelping books
- Vetwrap to wrap the tail of a long-haired bitch
- Flashlight with new batteries
- Clock or watch to time the birth
- Camera, film, and extra battery
- Something for you to do while waiting – cards, magazines, etc.
- Ink pen (and an extra) and note pad – mark each pup's arrival time, sex, weight, color, and markings (either natural markings or id mark you apply), and if placenta was expelled
- Make sure the phone cord reaches the whelping box or that the battery for the cordless phone is charged
- Cot for you to sleep
- Newspaper – to help line the floor of the whelping box
- Small Box or basket – to put the puppies in while another puppy is being delivered
- Hot water bottles – milk jugs, two-liter pop bottles, etc... You can use these to help keep puppies warm when they are in the small box away from mom
- Puppy Formula/Milk Replacer/Goats Milk – just in case there is a situation where mom cannot feed the pups
- Snacks for mom – yogurt, cottage cheese, goats milk, vanilla ice cream. It is a good idea to give her some high in calcium snacks AFTER she has had the first puppy. If there is a break in between puppies, sometimes a little calcium will help get labor started again
- Pen and paper – to record the puppy’s time of birth, weight, etc…
- Puppy Scale
- Vet and ER Vet Phone numbers – You should have this info on hand in case a problem should arise where you need immediate vet assistance and your vet is not available (such as night time).
German Shepherd Dog House and Kennels
German Shepherd Dog House
If you are getting a new dog for your family, you will have some initial questions to answer about how you are going to raise your pet. Is this going to be an inside dog or an outside dog? If you are raising an inside dog, you will have to deal with a whole host of problems like teaching him what furniture pieces he can and can't be on. But if you are raising an outdoor dog, you need to think about how you are going to train your new pet to deal with living outside.
The first thing you need to do is have a house for your dog to live in. Dogs need a safe and dry space that they can call their own. Inside this is often a bed or crate, but if they are outside, you should look more towards a house.
When selecting a dog house it should be big enough that your dog can stand up and move around inside. It doesn't need to be too much bigger than that, as dogs like their dens to be cozy and not too large.
When you are first bringing your new dog home, you will have to teach him that the dog house is his space. This could take some time and prodding. You should first let your new family member walk around the house and get to know it. He is going to want to do a lot of sniffing, getting to know the scents that are around your yard and the new house.
Next you want to get your dog to go inside the house. You shouldn't push your dog too much. Forcing him inside is just going to make the dog house seem like a frightening place to be. Instead, use positive reinforcement to get him inside. If your dog likes a particular type of treat, you may want to show him one of those treats and put it right by the door of his house.
Once you dog takes that treat you can push another one a little further into the house. Now he should be willing to peek his head inside to get the treat. At the same time he will be taking note of what he sees and realize it is not threatening.
You may have to repeat this a few times, moving treats further and further into the dog house until your dog realizes it is safe to be completely inside the house. You should spend some time with him at the house. When he is young he is looking to you as his keeper and the person who he should follow. The longer you stay by the house with him, the more he understands it's safe to be there and that he can get comfortable.
Speaking of getting comfortable, you should consider comforts for your dog while in his dog house to make it cozy. You can put a dog bed inside or at least a blanket and other items that will make it seem like a home.
If you keep this up while your dog is a puppy, by the time he is old enough to go outside for good, he will be comfortable living in his house.
German Shepherd Dog Digestive Tract & Internal Medications
German Shepherd Dog Digestive Tract Care
German Shepherds are notorious for digestive problems, especially chronic diarrhea caused by food intolerances, colitis (inflammatory bowel disease), hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, or pancreatic insufficiency. This breed should be eating real food for sure, not an artificial diet of kibble or canned food.
As with all deep-chested breeds, German Shepherds are at higher-than-normal risk for the emergency gastrointestinal syndrome bloat.
Pet owners who feed their companion pets correctly can save a lot of money. Many dogs are taken to the vet, suffering from nutritionally related problems, and the vet bills can be huge. i.e. dry/itchy/flaky skin, hot spots, yeast infections in the ear, thyroid - liver - kidney problems, just to name a few, cost the average dog owner hundreds of dollars every year.
The food should contain: (#1) nutrient sources that are similar to those found in the native environment of the breed's ancestors (sources which are not foreign to the digestive and glandular systems of today's German Shepherd Dog and which are easy for them to assimilate) and (#2) the proper balance of protein, carbohydrates, fatty acids, vitamins and minerals that match the breed specific nutritional requirements - those which have been passed on by their ancestors.
German Shepherd Dog Canned Food
Making the right dog food choices
Although dry dog food is convenient to store, pet nutritionists such as DogAware.com's Mary Straus say that canned food can be better than dry food, mostly because it contains fewer preservatives (because the canning process itself acts as a preservative). Canned dog food generally contains less grain and more moisture, which helps keep a dog hydrated and benefits the urinary tract.
Like canned foods, the best dry dog foods have high-quality proteins (named meat and meat meals), along with high-quality carbohydrates, such as potatoes and whole grains. Lower-quality products instead may contain corn, wheat and soy, along with glutens and byproducts. Experts don't consider such ingredients to be highly desirable, and brands containing them may not be very palatable to dogs. Pound for pound, the well-known brands sold in supermarkets and major pet-food chains are obviously a lot cheaper. However, many pet-nutrition experts say that the initial cost difference doesn't tell the whole story. They note that the higher-quality ingredients in premium food mean your dog will actually eat less compared to inexpensive dog food. An added benefit is that because more of the food is absorbed as nutrients, your dog will pass less solid waste.
Experts also point out that suggested serving sizes are just that -- suggestions. Feeding needs vary greatly depending on your dog's breed and activity level, and serving guidelines are merely a good jumping-off point. A dog that spends all day running around in the yard will obviously need more food than a sedentary dog. Observation will tell you if your dog needs more or less food.
Dog food for life stages
Choosing the proper food has become even more challenging since manufacturers started labeling their foods as being suited for certain life stages, such as puppy, large adult or senior, or breeds. According to the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), the body that governs and regulates pet-food labeling, there are only two true designations: a formula for puppies and one for adult dogs. Puppy formulas generally have more calories and protein. Products labeled "senior" or "large breed" mean the food meets requirements for regular adult food. There's nothing regulating those additional terms when they're used on dog food packaging.
Change dog foods periodically, and alternate between dry dog food and canned food. Many experts say you should change brands every few months as well, which will ensure that any nutrient deficiencies in a particular food won't have long-term effects. Find three or four foods your dog likes and alternate among them. High-meat-content canned foods are best used as a supplement to a high-quality dry food.
Look for certification by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO). According to the Food and Drug Administration's Center for Veterinary Medicine website, "An AAFCO nutritional adequacy statement is one of the most important aspects of a dog or cat food label. A 'complete and balanced' pet food must be substantiated for nutritional adequacy by one of two means. The first method is for the pet food to contain ingredients formulated to provide levels of nutrients that meet an established profile. The alternative means of substantiating nutritional adequacy is for the product to be tested following the AAFCO Feeding Trial Protocols."
Choose a food that has whole meat or whole meat meal (lamb meal, chicken meal, etc.) as its top ingredients. Grain sources should also be whole grains, as opposed to glutens or other processed products. Rice and barley is better than corn or wheat. Avoid meat byproducts, particularly ones in which the meat is not named, and meat-and-bone meals.
Avoid BHT, BHA and ethoxyquin as preservatives. A better choice would be foods preserved with tocopherols (vitamin E) or vitamin C (ascorbate).
Observe your dog carefully when trying a new food. Some dogs need more protein and some need less, just as some dogs need to eat more than others, depending on activity level. Look for changes in coat and skin, along with stool consistency.
Pet-food safety is a concern. Past recalls of dog foods -- because of wheat and rice glutens contaminated with melamine -- have spotlighted some major issues regarding pet foods and their ingredients. Recent pet-food recalls have included ones for salmonella that have also made pet owners who had come in contact with the food fall ill. Although the majority of foods are deemed safe, this is clearly an ongoing issue.
German Shepherd Dog Grooming Supplies and Products
Grooming Supplies | The German Shepherd
The German shepherd is not considered a high maintenance dog; however, grooming does require some effort to maintain a beautiful coat, properly trimmed toenails, and white shinny teeth. The shepherd’s double coat, with coarse outer guard hair and a thick, softer undercoat, helps make it a versatile working dog, able to function in just about any climate.
When you go to the pet store to pick up supplies for your German Shepherd Dog, you will need to get a coat rake (undercoat rake), a shedding blade, a rubbery curry brush, a deshedding tool, and a comb – the five integral parts of a German Shepherd dog owner's tool kid. Also important are brushes, nail clippers, and even a shedding rake. When you begin the grooming process go through the entire dog's coat with a slicker brush, beginning at the head and following the lines of the fur to the tail. Then comb through the coat with a metal comb, removing any excess loose hair as you do so. Then go over the whole coat with a rubber curry brush. This will help you make your German Shepherd dog's coat shinier. Your dog will enjoy this too, as the rubber curry brush is a great massage tool. If it's shedding season, finish off your regular grooming process by using a shedding blade, grooming your German Shepherd Dog this time from back to front.
You will however need to be careful with these shedding blades. While they can be enormously helpful to you as a dog owner, particularly during the shedding season, you need to know how to use them correctly in order to avoid harming your dog. Ask a licensed German Shepherd dog groomer or other professional how to use the device properly. Begin by placing the blades on the dog, pulling them back with minimal pressure. It is highly advisable to have a “helper” as part of the process to be on hand to keep the dog still and distracted to avoid any accidents or sudden movement.
Also helpful is the deShedding tool, specifically the FURminator deShed Tool Dog Lrg/Yellow Long Hair for German Shepherds. This method removes the undercoat better than any other tool, and also distributes skin oils throughout your German Shepherd's body, not to mention the fact that it gives your German Shepherd dog a pretty comfortable massage as well! If you brush your German Shepherd dog after you bathe it, waiting until the dog is almost but not completely dry, the extraneous hair will come out easily. Use a chamois cloth when you're through to give your dog an extra twinkle in its newly shiny coat.
German Shepherd Country Leggings
Style AND comfort can both be king in one perfect pair of custom GSDsite.com leggings. Custom made with care, each pair of leggings is printed before being sewn, allowing for fun designs on every square inch.|
M&M Quality Shepherds
We are dedicated to breeding and providing our customers with quality, superior German shepherds. |
German Shepherd Mom T-Shirt
Quality German Shepherd Mom short-sleeve crew-neck t-shirts, 100% pre-shrunk cotton (cotton/polyester) heavy weight fabric for a comfortable feel. |